Frequently Asked Questions

To effectively unclog a double kitchen sink, you need to isolate the pressure from your plunger. Start by plugging one of the drains completely with a wet rag or sink plug. On the other drain, use a cup-style plunger to create a tight seal and plunge vigorously. This directs the full force of the plunging action toward the clog.

If this fails, the clog is likely in the P-trap (the U-shaped pipe). Place a bucket underneath it to catch water. Use channel-lock pliers to loosen the two large slip nuts, then remove and clean out the trap. For the stubborn grease buildup common in Summerville, SC kitchens, hot water and dish soap work well. Reinstall the trap, hand-tightening the nuts before a final quarter-turn with pliers—be careful not to overtighten.

A slow bathroom sink is almost always caused by a buildup of hair and soap scum on the pop-up stopper. Before doing anything else, simply pull the stopper out. If it doesn't lift out, look for a horizontal pivot rod under the sink, unscrew its retaining nut, and pull the rod out slightly. This will free the stopper. Clean the gunk off thoroughly. In nine out of ten cases for homeowners in Charleston, SC, this simple cleaning instantly restores normal drainage.

Most professional plumbers advise strongly against using liquid chemical drain cleaners. The harsh chemicals can generate intense heat, damaging older metal pipes like the cast iron found in many historic Charleston, SC homes and even warping modern PVC. They are also highly toxic. If the chemical fails to clear the blockage, you're left with a pipe full of corrosive liquid, making it extremely dangerous for a plumber to work on. A drain auger (snake) is a far safer and more effective solution.

A drain auger is an excellent tool for clogs beyond the P-trap.

DIY Tip: Remove the drain stopper or overflow plate. Feed the auger cable into the drain until you feel resistance. Lock the cable and turn the handle clockwise, pushing forward gently to break up or hook the clog. Retract the cable, clean the tip, and flush the drain with hot water.

If only one fixture (like a sink or toilet) is backing up, the clog is likely in that specific branch line. If multiple fixtures in different areas (especially on the ground floor) are backing up, or you hear gurgling noises when using water, you likely have a main sewer line clog.

When to Call a Pro: Main sewer line clogs require professional equipment to clear and diagnose potential issues like tree root intrusion or a collapsed pipe.

It's likely jammed. First, turn off the power to the disposal at the circuit breaker. Then, look for a small hex-shaped hole on the bottom of the unit. Use the Allen key that came with the disposal (or a standard 1/4" Allen key) to manually turn the blades back and forth to free the jam.

Avoid fibrous vegetables (celery, corn husks), starchy foods (potato peels, pasta, rice), coffee grounds, eggshells, and any grease, oil, or fat. These items can create clogs and damage the unit.

This is usually caused by a faulty flapper—the rubber seal at the bottom of the tank. Over time, the flapper can degrade and no longer create a tight seal. Replacing a flapper is an easy and inexpensive DIY fix.

It could be a low water level in the tank (adjust the float to raise it) or clogged rim jets under the toilet bowl's edge. Use a small wire or Allen key to carefully poke out any mineral deposits from the small holes under the rim.

Yes. This water has passed through the bowl and is unsanitary. The problem is likely a failed wax ring that seals the toilet to the drainpipe.

When to Call a Pro: While replacing a wax ring is a DIY project, it requires removing the entire toilet. If you're not comfortable with that, call a plumber to ensure a proper seal and prevent leaks.

Look for the small oval-shaped valve on the wall or floor behind the toilet, connected to a supply line. Turn this valve clockwise until it stops. This is the fixture shutoff valve.

DIY Tip: Yes, this is a manageable DIY project. You'll need to turn off the water, drain the toilet, unbolt it from the floor, replace the wax ring, set the new toilet, and bolt it down carefully (don't overtighten and crack the porcelain).

The fix depends on the faucet type. For older compression faucets, it's usually a worn-out rubber washer. For newer cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc faucets, you'll need to replace the entire cartridge or O-rings inside the faucet body. This is a very common DIY repair.

The most common cause is a clogged aerator—the small screen on the tip of the faucet. Unscrew the aerator, disassemble it, and clean out any sediment or mineral buildup.

For leaks, try tightening the connection or replacing the thread seal tape on the shower arm. For uneven spray, mineral deposits are the culprit. Unscrew the showerhead and soak it overnight in a bowl of white vinegar to dissolve the buildup.

DIY Tip: Yes, for most people. The hardest part is often working in the cramped space under the sink. You'll need a basin wrench to loosen the old faucet's mounting nuts. Follow the instructions included with your new faucet carefully.

For an electric heater, a tripped circuit breaker or a failed heating element is the likely cause. For a gas heater, the pilot light may be out. Follow the instructions on the tank to safely relight it. If it won't stay lit, the thermocouple may have failed.

This is usually caused by sediment buildup at the bottom of the tank. The noise is water trapped under the sediment boiling. This reduces efficiency and can damage the tank. The solution is to have the tank professionally flushed.

A leak from the tank itself usually means internal corrosion, and the water heater must be replaced. Immediately shut off the water supply to the tank (a valve on the cold water inlet) and the power (at the breaker) or gas supply.

This is a critical safety device on your water heater that opens to release pressure if the temperature or pressure inside the tank gets too high, preventing an explosion. If it's constantly leaking, it needs to be replaced immediately.

Tankless heaters provide endless hot water and are more energy-efficient since they only heat water on demand. However, the upfront installation cost is significantly higher. They are a great option if you have a high demand for hot water.

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS. This is not a DIY job. A gas water heater conversion involves new gas piping, venting, and plumbing connections. Improper installation can lead to dangerous gas leaks, carbon monoxide poisoning, or fires. This work requires a licensed plumber in Easley.

In areas with hard water, it's a good idea to flush your tank water heater annually to remove sediment. This extends its life and improves efficiency.

Look for the main shutoff valve. It's often located in a basement, crawlspace, or utility closet where the water line enters the house. In Easley, many homes also have a curb-side shutoff in a utility box near the street (this may require a special tool).

This is called "water hammer." It happens when flowing water is stopped abruptly, causing a shockwave. It can damage pipes and joints over time. Installing a water hammer arrestor can solve the problem.

It could be a partially closed main shutoff valve or a failing Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV). The PRV is a bell-shaped device installed after the main valve and is responsible for regulating water pressure from the city main.

First, shut off the main water supply. Open the faucet connected to the frozen pipe. Gently warm the pipe section with a hairdryer, starting from the faucet end and working your way back. Never use an open flame.

PEX is a flexible plastic tubing that has become the standard for new residential construction. It's faster to install, less prone to bursting if frozen, and more corrosion-resistant than copper or galvanized steel.

When to Call a Pro: This is a major plumbing overhaul that requires cutting into your home's main water lines. It involves specific tools, knowledge of proper connections, and adherence to local plumbing codes in Easley. This job is best left to a licensed professional.

That is a plumbing vent. It allows air to enter the plumbing system, which helps water drain smoothly and prevents sewer gases from entering your home through drain traps.

A sewer cleanout is a capped pipe that provides direct access to your home's main sewer line. It's typically located outside near your home's foundation or in the yard, close to the street.

This usually means a P-trap in an unused fixture (like a floor drain or guest bathroom sink) has dried out. Run water in all drains for a minute to refill the traps. If the smell persists, you could have a more serious issue, like a cracked vent pipe.

For homeowners on Daniel Island, SC, and in Mt. Pleasant, SC, hard water isn't just a nuisance; it can affect your high-end appliances and fixtures. The dissolved minerals in our local water supply are what cause unsightly spots on glass shower doors and chrome faucets. More importantly, this mineral scale builds up inside your tankless water heater, dishwasher, and washing machine, reducing their efficiency and shortening their lifespan.

This same buildup is what causes the common popping noise in traditional water heaters. To protect your investment, we recommend annual descaling for tankless water heaters and flushing for traditional tanks. For a permanent fix, a whole-house water softener will eliminate hard water problems at the source, protecting all of your home's plumbing and appliances.

In the Lowcountry, where the water table is high, a sump pump is essential for any home with a basement or deep crawlspace prone to flooding. It automatically pumps groundwater away from your foundation.

A PRV is a crucial component that reduces the high water pressure from the city main to a safe level for your home's plumbing system (typically 50-75 PSI), protecting your pipes and appliances from damage.

An unexplained spike in your water bill almost always indicates a hidden leak. The most common culprit by far is a constantly running toilet. Other possibilities include a dripping faucet or a leak in the underground service line between the meter and your house.

DIY Tip: Make sure no water is being used in your house. Go to your water meter and look at the leak indicator (often a small triangle or star). If it's spinning, you have a leak.

Standard rubber hoses should be replaced every 3-5 years to prevent a catastrophic burst. For greater peace of mind, especially in second-floor laundry rooms common in new Summerville, SC homes, upgrade to durable, braided stainless steel hoses.

Absolutely not. Plumbers across Charleston, SC, Summerville, SC, and the entire country agree: there is no such thing as a "flushable" wipe. They do not break down like toilet paper and are a leading cause of severe clogs in home and city sewer lines. Always dispose of wipes in the trash.

Look for a plumber who is licensed and insured in South Carolina, has a strong reputable history with positive online reviews, and is transparent with a clear, written estimate. It's also wise to choose a plumber with experience in the specific housing types found in your area, whether it's a historic home in Charleston, SC, or a new build on Daniel Island, SC.